There are days in the Ionian that feel less like an excursion and more like a little escape from time. For us, this was one of them.
During peak season, we set off from Perigiali with family and friends for a private boat trip along the south and southwestern coast of Lefkada and across some of the most beautiful waters of the Ionian such as Egremni and Porto Katsiki. There was no fixed schedule and no need to hurry — just the freedom to discover the coastline at our own pace, swim wherever the water looked inviting and stop whenever we wanted.
For anyone staying at an Ionian Islands villa or planning a luxury villa holiday in Lefkada, a private boat day is one of the most memorable ways to experience the region.
Along the southwestern coast of Lefkada
We set off from Perigiali and headed straight towards our first destination, hoping to arrive early enough to experience its beauty and tranquillity of Egremni and Porto Katsiki before the summer crowds began to arrive.
We passed Cape Lefkatas, the southern tip of Lefkada, where enormous white cliffs rise above the deep blue Ionian. At the top stands the historic Lighthouse of Lefkatas, built on the site associated with the ancient sanctuary of Apollo Lefkatas. The cape is also connected with the legend of Sappho’s Leap. According to ancient tradition, the poet Sappho is said to have thrown herself from these cliffs because of unrequited love. From the sea, the landscape was spectacular. Brilliant white cliffs, dramatic rock formations and endless blue.
We continued slowly along the coast towards Porto Katsiki.
Porto Katsiki from the sea
Approaching Porto Katsiki by boat gives you a completely different perspective of this famous Lefkada beach.
The enormous white cliffs rise almost vertically behind and above the beach, creating natural shade for the visitors below. People were already enjoying the beach when we passed, but from the water we could appreciate the full scale of the landscape — the white rock, turquoise sea and deep blue horizon.
Our destination, however, was still ahead.
Egremni.
Egremni, our little piece of paradise
We eventually reached Egremni Beach and anchored offshore. The water was the bluest of blue; calm, exceptionally clear and velvety. We swam towards the beach and, because we had arrived relatively early, found a wonderfully quiet stretch farther away from the main landing point and the famous staircase offering access from land. For quite a while, it felt as though the beach belonged entirely to us. We swam, floated, and simply enjoyed being there.
A little later, the daily excursion boats began arriving. Apparently we had taken their spot so we moved farther away from there which would soon become a busy section. There was plenty of room of this 2,5km amazingly beautiful beach so nothing could take away from the extraordinary colour of the water or the beauty of it.
After a couple of hours, we continued our private boat trip around Lefkada.
Atokos island, a thought about responsible tourism
Our next destination was Atokos, which my nephew had never visited before and had specifically asked to see. The little island is known for its untouched landscape, extraordinary blue-green waters and, of course, its famous wild pigs.
As we approached the bay where the pigs gather, we were struck by the colour of the sea. It was an incredible shade of green, so clear and calm that it looked almost like a natural swimming pool. Along the rocky shoreline, a family of pigs was wandering freely.
But there were already quite a few people around them, walking along the beach, calling to the pigs, touching them and feeding them. Numerous boats had gathered offshore, while one was even hosting a floating party, with a group of young people enjoying music and the sunshine.
It was certainly an unusual sight and one that made us appreciate just how extraordinary this little corner of the Ionian is, while also making us reflect on the impact that growing visitor numbers can have on such a fragile and wild environment.
For us, the beauty of Atokos lies precisely in its wildness. Perhaps the most respectful way to experience such places is to admire the animals from a distance and allow them to remain wild.
We stayed only briefly, enjoying a short swim while mostly remaining on the boat, where we grabbed a bite of the sandwiches we had brought with us before continuing our journey.
Papanikolis Cave and the coast of Meganisi
We then followed the coastline of Meganisi, eventually reaching the impressive Papanikolis Cave.
The enormous sea cave opens dramatically into the coastline, creating a vast natural chamber with crystal-clear water and even a small beach inside. The cave is traditionally associated with the Greek submarine Papanikolis, one of the best-known Greek submarines of the Second World War, and is widely connected with stories of the submarine using the cave as a hiding place during the war.
Standing inside the cave, surrounded by rock, water and silence, it was easy to imagine why such a place could have provided refuge.
We continued along the coastline of Meganisi, passing Ammoglossa Beach and travelling farther east before beginning our return journey.
Scorpios and the way home
Our final stop was Scorpios Island. We approached the famous Jackie Onassis Beach, associated with Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Aristotle Onassis.We stopped only briefly, as there were already many boats anchored in the bay. And that was perfectly fine.
One of the pleasures of a private boat is that you do not have to stay somewhere simply because it is famous. You can admire it, enjoy the view and move on.
From Scorpios, we took our final route back towards Perigiali. The sun was beginning to soften, a gentle sea breeze had picked up, and the familiar coastline slowly came back into view. It had been a long day: Lefkatas, Porto Katsiki, Egremni, Atokos, Meganisi, Papanikolis Cave and Scorpios.
But more than the places themselves, what stayed with us was the feeling of the day. Swimming in water so blue it hardly seemed real.
Perhaps that is what makes a private boat trip in Lefkada so special. It is not simply about seeing the famous beaches. It is about experiencing the Ionian at your own pace; discovering the places between the places, finding your own quiet corner of paradise and letting the sea set the rhythm of the day.
For those staying in a luxury Lefkada villa, some days are spent beside the pool. Others are spent swimming in water so blue that it hardly seems real. And then there are days when you simply leave the shore behind and let the Ionian Sea set the pace.
Those are the days you remember.
We will be glad to arrange a private boat trip for you during your Lefkada or Meganisi luxury villa stay.